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Birkenstock Vs. The Law: Can Sandals Be Art?

Birkenstock sandals are an undisputed icon—embraced by counterculture movements, medical professionals, and fashionistas alike. But are they art? The German Federal Court of Justice doesn’t think so.

The Legal Battle Over Birkenstock’s Design

On February 20, Germany’s highest civil court ruled that Birkenstock’s signature sandals, while distinctive, do not qualify as art and are therefore not protected by copyright. The case, brought by the shoemaker against three competitors—including German retailer Tchibo—aimed to block the sale of similar wide-strapped, big-buckle sandals. Birkenstock claimed its designs were “copyright-protected works of applied art,” deserving of stronger intellectual property protection than ordinary consumer goods.

However, the court disagreed, concluding that functionality and craftsmanship outweighed artistic merit in this instance.

The Design Vs. Art Debate

Under German law, copyright protection extends 70 years after the creator’s death, while design protection lasts only 25 years from the product’s launch. With some of Birkenstock’s original designs dating back to the 1970s, many had already lost design protection. The company’s legal team sought to classify them as art, arguing their “iconic design” warranted extended copyright safeguards.

However, the court determined that products influenced by technical requirements and functional constraints do not meet the threshold for copyright protection. “For a work of applied art to be copyright-protected, it must reveal a distinct level of individuality beyond mere utility,” the ruling stated.

A Legacy Beyond The Courtroom

Birkenstock’s legal setback comes as the brand continues to expand its reach. Once a favorite among hippies and healthcare professionals, the brand experienced a pop culture renaissance following Margot Robbie’s pink Birkenstock cameo in the 2023 blockbuster Barbie.

Founded in 1774 and run by the Birkenstock family for six generations, the company transitioned to new ownership in 2021 when U.S. private equity firm L Catterton—backed by French billionaire Bernard Arnault’s luxury empire LVMH—acquired a majority stake. Birkenstock went public in 2023, cementing its status as both a heritage brand and a lucrative fashion player.

While Birkenstock’s sandals may not be art in the eyes of the law, their enduring cultural impact is undeniable. Whether they remain a symbol of comfort or a statement of style, their place in fashion history is already secured.

Nvidia Launches Open AI Security Alliance With Microsoft, Palantir And SpaceX

Nvidia and a coalition of technology companies on Monday launched the Open Secure AI Alliance, a new initiative aimed at strengthening artificial intelligence security through open models.

The alliance was announced days after a cyberattack involving OpenAI models targeted AI platform Hugging Face, an incident that renewed debate over whether open or closed AI systems are better suited for cybersecurity.

Open Models at the Core

Nvidia said the alliance will focus on identifying, disclosing and mitigating AI security vulnerabilities using open technologies.

“The Open Secure AI Alliance will work to remediate and disclose vulnerabilities using open technologies,” the company said in a statement. “The recent Hugging Face security incident delivered a clear reminder: cyber defenders need open, frontier agentic systems for self-defense.”

The alliance includes Microsoft, SpaceX, Palantir and dozens of other technology companies from the U.S. and Europe.

Open-weight models can be downloaded, modified and deployed on an organisation’s own infrastructure, allowing security teams to inspect and adapt them for defensive purposes. By comparison, proprietary models from companies such as OpenAI and Anthropic are generally accessed through controlled platforms.

U.S. Scrutiny of Chinese AI Grows

The initiative comes as U.S. policymakers weigh potential restrictions on Chinese AI models, particularly open-weight systems. Officials have raised concerns that some Chinese companies may be using distillation techniques to extract knowledge from leading U.S. AI models.

Treasury Secretary Scott Bessent said last week that Chinese companies involved in such activity could face sanctions.

Chris McGuire, senior fellow for China and emerging technologies at the Council on Foreign Relations, told CNBC that potential restrictions could extend beyond model downloads to include API access and cloud-hosted inference services. He added that the debate in Washington is centred on intellectual property protection rather than opposition to open-source AI.

Industry Pushes Back

Last week, Nvidia, Microsoft, Meta, Palantir and more than 20 other companies urged policymakers not to impose what they described as “premature restrictions” on open-weight AI models, warning such measures could reduce competition and encourage innovation to move overseas.

The launch of the Open Secure AI Alliance signals growing industry support for open AI systems as governments consider new regulatory and security measures.

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